I got it now,thanks a lot doug.order the tr6 bearings today

When Doug Lawson says "break the sharp edges on each cup" he means remove any sharpness to the edges. Round them off very slightly with a deburring tool or something abrasive, being very careful not to get any filings into the needle bearing area. You only need to do the back edges away from the needles so they press in smoothly.

(Doug: I suspect the term "break the sharp edge" may not be familiar to some.)

I am not sure I can say this any clearer without getting ridiculously long winded.  Your question implies that you do not have a QL-5000 joint to look at and/or have not dealt with u-joints on other cars.  Google for images of the QL-5000.  Hopefully the pictures and text below will clarify this for you.

The QL-5000 joints have a regular metal u-joint supported in (4) tapered nylon cups.  The metal u-joint consists of a cross (X), 4 steel bearing cups with needle rollers inside, and typically (4) rubber seals.  When the steel u-joint of a QL-5000 fails you can replace it and re-use the nylon parts.

Take the failed QL-5000 to the workbench.  Remove the nylon cups from the old u-joint cross (they just slip off).  You will be left with (4) nylon cups with OLD steel cups and needle rollers inside.  Press those old steel cups out so the nylon cups are empty.  Throw out the old steel cups, old cross, old needle roller, and old seals.

Carefully remove the steel cups from your NEW u-joint (they will slide right off).

Break the Use wet/dry paper or a file to remove the sharp edges corners on each cup as I mentioned earlier being careful to NOT get any debris inside the steel cup.  Press the new steel cups into the old nylon cups.  Carefully put the nylon cups (with their new steel cups installed) back on the NEW u-joint cross.  Don't let any of the needle rollers get "knocked over".  This will become clear when you do it.

Again, you are not mixing any old and new u-joint parts.  You are removing all the old and installing the new.

You are not going to have any success going into an AutoZone and saying "Hey, I need a u-joint for the QL-5000 joints on my '67 Mini".  However, if you go into AutoZone and say "I need to ORDER a driveshaft u-joint for any year TR6" the only other question you have to answer is "Do you want one with a grease fitting?"  The TR6 joint is the same as that used on the QL-5000s.  Let me stress again that this is the TR6 driveshaft u-joint, not the half shaft u-joint.

EDIT:  Changes made per Dan's suggestion to clarify "break edge".

 Ok I see where you can go to autozone to get a u joint,but have to use your old used plastic caps.What about the old bearings that are in there?Also there was a reply about using TR 6 bearings,dont u still need the caps with the plastic on the caps? Still confused

See the links below:
https://www.bpnorthwest.com/universal-joint-hd-greaseable-tr2-to-tr6-bn1-to-bj8.html
or at Moss
//www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32811&SortOrder=20

You take the nylon cups to the workbench and press out the old steel cups.  You press in the new steel cups that come with your new u-joint.  You do not mix new and old components.  You are only re-using the old nylon cups.

The only suggestion I offer is to take your new u-joints steel cups and break their sharp edges on the flat closed end.  Removing that edge will insure you don't scrape away nylon when you press the new cups into the nylon pieces.

Thanks a lot dklawson,do you have a part number for that tr6 driveshaft.Also,what caps do you put on the new cross piece and what needle bearing do you put in the old caps?Do you put the plastic off the used caps onto the new caps.Also the part that you can buy from autozone cums without caps,do you use the old caps that you taken off and put them on again with the old bearings? THANKS

I favor the needle rollers, too; although, mine have always been the QL type. I had a good stock of them! I installed them after adding a small, additional amount of grease and never had trouble.

I just finished replacing a set of needle bearing joints with a new set of same. The old ones were in relatively good shape with no signs of wear but as I was doing a full rebuild I changed them out anyway. The replacements are effectively sealed joints to keep the grease in. I say effectively because the seal can be removed for installation along with the nylon cap. Just as well really as the drivers side in particular is a bugger to change because of clearance issues. I had to remove one cap (facing the top) and set the remaining three caps to slot into position before fiddling it into place. My only other issue was that the supplied U bolts were not an exact fit, so I put each of them into a vice to get them an exact fit before installation.

If during assembly, one of the caps come off including the seal - easy to do - double check that all needle bearings are still vertical before reassembly. A nice piece of kit and I would always use them rather than the rubber remakes
Steve 

And as a late response to Spitz' question, 66Cooper's comment, and Hunter's experience....

You can take the old nylon cups and fit a new, complete u-joint to restore them.  You want a driveshaft u-joint for a TR6.  (Not a half-shaft u-joint... a driveshaft u-joint).  Shop around.  Some TR6 u-joints are available with a 1/4-28 tap for a Zerk fitting.  You run the joint with a 1/4-28 set screw as a plug which is removed for temporary insertion of a LONG Zerk fitting for re-greasing.

I sent QH5000 joints across to Australia in 2010 when my soon to be purchased Mini Window Van was being upgraded at my expense before the actual purchase/transfer.  They were a direct replacement for the standard rubber item.

After 40,000 kms./25,000 miles of travel in Australia, I was in Ipswich, Qld. with Ken Nelson to give the Mini a check over before shipping it to Canada.

As we inspected the Mini on the hoist, I turned the drive shafts and nonchalantly said, "I think we need to look at these QH joints."

Upon disassembly, the joints were toast...needle bearings destroyed.  Ken & I had a good laugh.  I knew they were going away in Tasmania but got the Mini 'home' to Queensland.  The QH5000 failure was a natural outcome as the joints did NOT have grease fittings.

On installing new rubber joints, Ken commented that the rubber quality in the bits available in 2013 was not as good as the original joints.  Also, the U-bolts needed to be 'opened up' as the bolts were not parallel.

After shipping the Mini home, it has been driven across Canada to Ohio & back, south to MMW in San Diego & back, on two longer club runs (<1,000 kms./600 miles) and misc. local driving.  Mind you the stock 1098 is not a u-joint destroyer.

I still have two pairs of QL5000 in stock, one without the new u bolts, one complete with U bolts and nuts. $75 each if anybody wants Genuine ones................

Our host has them:
//www.minimania.com/part/QL5000/Driveshaft-Couplings-U-joints-For-Yoke-Axle-Similar-To-Quinton-Hazel-Roller-Type

Need info on where I can get needle bearing driveshaft couplings for my 67 mini

Harvey: sorry for the headache. But you got it!
Thanks for the sketch - I'm a CAD guy, and can't fathom using text characters.

Dan, I get a headache reading this, but I think when you said, " When a driveshaft is working at an angle, a universal joint imparts a small acceleration and deceleration on the driven shaft. To compensate, universal joints (except on Minis) are typically used in pairs, with the output shaft beyond the second one parallel to the input shaft. The second U-joint cancels out this acceleration/deceleration and the output shaft turns at the same rate as the input ."

you meant  A--------o
                                \
                                 \
                                  o---------B

where A is input shaft, and B is output shaft

End caps not included.  From above "If you can find an old set ..."  U-joint looks like the one pictured on the box - you add the caps.

Duhhh ... I've got it now. Better late than never.

Re the harshness on the drive-train: 
When a driveshaft is working at an angle, a universal joint imparts a small acceleration and deceleration on the driven shaft. To compensate, universal joints (except on Minis) are typically used in pairs, with the output shaft beyond the second one parallel to the input shaft. The second U-joint cancels out this acceleration/deceleration and the output shaft turns at the same rate as the input shaft. On a rear-wheel drive car, the transmission output shaft should be parallel with the differential input shaft. (On torque-tube type drive-trains, there were no U joints - the whole thing pivoted on the motor mounts as the rear axle went up and down.)
Older Minis have one U-joint and one constant velocity joint (now you know why it is called that). The rubber yoke couplings absorbed the vibrations as well as providing twist. Later Minis have pot joints that work more like constant velocity joints, eliminating the issue.

I think I remember when using the rubber U joint is to leave 3 threads showing. so you do not  over tighten. the plastic will last over the rubber. it will be a better choice.

Is that part number on the box all that is needed (x2) if reusing old ubolts.  Are then end caps not included?