Rick,

I have the same kit from California. Do you mind keeping track of missing bits so I can save a little head scratching time when it's my turn to do this same job?

Ron

When I did the install years ago, I put a very thin circle of black silicone sealant around each screw hole on the body. Just enough to create a seal around the hole. This would leave a thin gap for the water to pass under the wood and down and off the body without being trapped between the wood and body.

From what I have heard from past acquaintances that still encounter the car in Colorado, it is holding up fine 14 years later.

Norm, I think we have resolved the fastener install methods...but the kit was short 2 doz. 8-32 brass Nut Serts & 3/8" button head cap screws...trying to find those now & to ID the screws needed for the Wood on the Barn Doors (screws are in addition to the 4 nutserts/cap screws per door).

Masal, there will be 'something' behind the wood. Looking at options for final install after Woody is painted.

Looking at the pictures that looks like a pita job and i imagine a lot of those have been installed with a drill and a self tapping screw. What type of sealant goes behind the wood on the final install ? In the days gone by i believe they used a black moldable product similar to window glass grey putty in consistancy which never hardened but i am sure there are better products on the market now.

would something like this help?

//www.walmart.com/ip/40859559?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227028427498&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=61186340169&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=96580666329&veh=sem

hex socket set, with spherical end for alignment flexibility

Norm

Working the wood kit has presented a few bugs - getting round head, Allen key SS bolts into the brass inserts around the rear wheel arches was a supreme pain.  1st needed to cut off an Alley key to get into the cramped space and 2nd getting the darn bolt started involved wrapping the head in masking tape to allow some purchase...so...

I made 2 SS studs that we locktited into the 2 worst locations.  Still need to have some masking tape on the nut, but much quicker to get started.

And the SS bolts were not long enough to get through to the inserts in the short pcs. of Ash aft of the rear wheel arches.  So, 4 longer SS bolts needed but the easiest to install.  Sadly these pieces are so short and the mortise is so close to the hole in the steel that the brass insert caused the Ash to give way at the mortise on 1 pc....but repairable and completely out of sight.

One brass inserted went adrift in the Ash so withdrew it and epoxied it back in on the correct alignment.

Likely a UK kit...they are different!

BUT...the good news is the broken joint has been fixed, angle corrected and all back together.

See photos!

Rick,

That kit assembles a lot different from the kit I installed years ago. The one I installed did not have the biscuit dowels for butt joints. The pieces on mine were notched to overlap.

Well actually...the piece on the right side is in fact for the right side.  The larger rear pieces are arced to fit the body work so no one can not misplace them.  The routing seen is for location of the tail lamps.

Having said that, the fitment has not been easy as much trimming (nibbling a little and retrying) has been necessary and we are not yet quite half done after a full day.  Right hand side almost done.  Then on to the left side this morning.  We did fit the left rear piece after realizing that the new left rear steel section was off by a little bit needing to nibble at one of the hinge cut outs, then address the right side for symmetry.

However, wanting to get it right so we will persist.

The only unhappiness was the joint that broke on the left side rear upright.  The angle of the joint was way off...but my neighbour & wood pro says 'no worries'...and he hasn't been to Australia.

1)  The wood pieces are general wider (rear uprights) and longer...except for the RH piece that runs along the lower lip back from the B pillar to the wheel arch...so we shortened both the upper & mid rails (bracketing the rear window opening.

2) Consequently there is some wood removal to the top but more likely bottom of uprights and from the rear door opening and outside edges...all before any rounding or shaping of corners, joins etc. The two photos of the right rear show the excess and the result once the two pieces are screwed together & trimmed.

I've followed your build on FB since my hiatus from MM.
It's great to see some color on the ole girl.
Love your updates. Thanks for saving another one Rick.

Spitz,

Pretty sure that he meant to fit the wood before paint, and then remove it for paint (so all of the metal surfaces are coated), and then re-fit the wood afterwards.

N

I had made an assumption that the vehicle would be painted before wood so that every part of the car has a good solid coat/protection….then the wood.
I'm asking, as a friend will be doing the same this summer and want to pass on info.

Rick,

Making the trial fit prior to painting is the very best approach.

The wood pieces are very much right or left handed. The one piece you show on the right rear is actually for the left rear. The recess in the wood that appears to be for the tail light is actually to fit OVER the raised part of the metal seat for the tail light. The outer edges of that piece "should" be slightly rounded and the crisp edges go against the car.

When I put the wood kit on a 1970 Clubman Estate years ago, the pieces for a given side were supposed to be assembled into a single unit prior to actually being fitted to the car. This meant carefully determining the right side pieces from the left and then figuring out how to "tape" them together for the first trial fitting. Once on the car in that fitting, you mark the alignment of the tabs for securing the pieces to each other so you can recreate that alignment and secure the pieces together from the backside with the very small wood screws in the mounting kit. Make a second trial fit to verify. Then take it all apart again and apply your desired finish to all sides of the wood. Once all the individual pieces are finished, re-assemble and do one more trial fit. Stow the assembled sections aside and have the car painted, then make the final fitment of the wood kit.

We started on the new Ash but quickly realized we were in over our heads...so, I spoke with a neighbour who is a finishing carpenter...and guitar maker.  He will take on the fitment and has the tools & expertise to do it.

Today, LUCKY came home...out of the metal lab, for the wood fitting to begin.  Happy to be at this stage!

Hi Spitz,

Fit wood BEFORE paint so as not to scuff things up afterwards.

Body/paint man will want to see any bad fit before starting his work.

Rick/Hunter2

Is the car not painted before fitting the wood?

Right side up for gutter seam sealing, wood fitting...and then off for body/paint.

Body color same all over...Lime Squeeze Metallic.  We seam sealed and undercoated the bottom...and painted it.  It looks that way because of the undercoat.

On the reference photo you posted of another car, it looks to be a 'flip' paint or just a high-metallic effect?
What colour for the upper portions? You only mentioned the green for the "bottom".
I wonder if you'd get grief from amphibian lovers and sod-layers shouting "green side up!"

BTW. I LIKE it!

Rick - Looks Awesome - You have really taken to the Aussie Theme with Green and Gold Mini Vans. Well chosen!!