The AT-205 seems to have good reviews for stopping leaks, but no info about any damage it might do to other components.  Anything that would affect a rubber seal that much is probably going to have other effects on other components you might not want.  So I'm not going to take that chance.  I'm sure if I fill the engine with liquid epoxy, it would stop the leak, among other things. 

Zip, it's alright, no need to flood my email, i already told you, i have accepted your apology,sincerely.

1.)Never e-mailed you. Never will.
2.)How can you accept an apology that was never given?

Edit: Go ahead and pour whatever snake oil you like into any orifice on the pink wonder. (It's running great right now correct?) lease don't recommend that anyone else does the same.

wakil, for once pls listen to me, order AT-205 reseal online for $10, and pour it inside your engine(not outside of course), after few days of driving,you will see a big difference.  the AT-205 reseal will recondition the main oil seal to become pliable , to regain tight seal and prevent oil from leaking on the clutch.  trust me , been there done that, OR better yet replace the main oil seal either way will do.  

Well, my chatter/judder problem was getting worse it seemed, then suddenly dissappeared over the last week.  Only thing I can think of is last week I changed the oil and used Valvoline 20w50 racing oil (not sure what the previous owner had used, but my guess is it was a lower viscosity oil).  My main reason was to protect against the super Texas heat, but seems to have given me some side benefits.  My oil drips on the driveway have reduced, and I'm guessing the oil was leaking on the clutch and either stopped or greatly reduced.  

Bad engine mounts can seem like the clutch chattering and it tends to get progressively worse as the mounts fail.

Kelley

My first Mini, a 68 Countryman with the 850cc magic wand "power' plant had a grabby clutch - not really chatter - it just tended to grab. The remedy was to add revs to avoid stalls and "let 'er go", which tended to regularly produce a wheel chirp from the front tires. Friends gave her the nickname "The Chirp". That clutch lasted until the lump was swapped for a MG 1100cc power upgrade.

At age 15years three months I got my drivers. By 16 I had a work permit and was driving wrecker truck for a engine and tranny exchange. The boss loved to say I could get any clutch to chatter. I learned quickly that a clutch is either in or out don't mess around in the middle. I have noticed on several cars lately the clutch plunger and arm were dry and sticking I'm sure that would not help. Steve (CTR)

Well, I used to think so too. Until a tooth broke off the starter pinion at Wakefield Park track day and the ring gear tossed it up, and broke the PCV breather boss above the clutch. 
I then drove it home (150? miles) with 1L or more of oil in the clutch housing. I stopped at a few servos and filled the oil, checked the petrol.
Clutch was smooth as silk- no slip, and no judder! Go figure...

Leaking primary gear seal leading to oil on the clutch plate is a common cause of judder...

Cheers, Ian

DRMINI will get a kick out of this...

When I arrived in Sydney (during the test drive) with flat doughnuts, riding on the bump stops, I took the Mini to Greg Maalure who installed somewhat better used rubber doughnuts, hi-los and trimmed the bump stops.  On picking up the Mini he said, "You've got clutch judder."  I already knew that and 'drove around the judder' for some 25,000 miles in Australia and another 8,000 miles in North America so far.

So...yes you can drive around clutch judder (if the God's agree). 

I have seen bad judder when using some aftermarket (read: asian rubbish) clutch plates. Some of their facings have the consistency of cardboard.
IMO the `AP' clutch plates with the black facing work best.

The root cause is too 'tall' a final drive for a small engine, and yes driving technique!  Too many people like to run high gears so the cars can do 70 without feeling like they're going to shake apart!  That tiny engine puts 'maybe' 20-25 HP to the wheels, and it needs to spin to make power!  You can help by making sure all your engine mountings are solid, particularly the bushings and mounting of the 'dog bone' engine stabilizer strut holding the engine to the firewall.  Basically, if this was a 'normal' car, it's like you're trying to start off in second gear!

"I have heard this is due to the flywheel having been over heated and developing hot spots that create non-uniform friction and engagement with the clutch"

I've never heard of this.

1. Its probably the cluch. Maybe the primary seal is leaking and its getting oil on the clutch. As you get more experience you might be able to eliminate the judder with the way you operate the clutch.

2. Yes you can resurface the flywheel and pressure plate. You'll need to macine the same amount of the pressure plate posts. This is for pre-verto clutches. I don't know D*** about verto clutches.

I have noticed on occasion when I start off in first gear I get pretty bad clutch chatter and engine vibration.  It is slowly getting more common and more noticable.  I have heard this is due to the flywheel having been over heated and developing hot spots that create non-uniform friction and engagement with the clutch.  (I have to admit I have been working the clutch too much trying to avoid stalls on takeoff, as I'm getting used to driving my newly acquired mini). 

My questions are: 

1.  Do the symptoms suggest flywheel issues or something else?

2.  Can flywheels be resurfaced or do people mostly replace flywheels