Thanks for the help so far.    I'll try to get over to the storage spot to get the vin later today.  Hopefully it wasn't affected by the blast/mending/respray.

As for the age - well, I'm going by what the prior owner (and his fellow Mini brethren) shared with me.  Again, I didn't have much knowledge of Mokes - hell, living in Chicago my whole life, I'd never even seen one (have since seen 4 or 5).   

The car is titled as a '70, but he states it is actually a '69.   Let's see if the VIN can solve that riddle.

As for gearbox, I've been assured it's pudding stirrer/magic wand.  Again, the prior owner had done a bunch of fiddling with it.  He's got a garage with about 5 Mini variants in various states (as well as a very nice Isetta!).   That garage also has a bunch of parts layer around - an A series engine here, an exhaust there.    I know he replaced the engine with the 1098 and put the hot cam on, so it's quite possible he replaced the gear box as well when he had the car apart.      

I can see if I can track him down to find out.   

That one looks a little later than a 69. 

What is that word that gets thrown about when someone makes a car look a decade older than it really is? 

The gearbox would have been a rod-change, they stopped fitting the 3-syncro in 69 and started with the rod-change in 73. So it should be a rod-change unless it has been fitted with an older motor and box.

If the seller wants to know the real age of the car let me know the VIN I can probably tell you the date to the month. The number is stamped on the shroud panel next to the radiator.
I suspect the Compliance Plate was removed when the car was imported for some reason...

I'll have to check the Compliance Plate location - but from memory its on the front of the triangular web at the end of the bulkhead crossmeember on the (RHD) Passengers side (now we know why a picture is worth a lot of wordds - However, a 69/70 probably won't have one.

Before I started posting prices I think I (or rather you - as a self confessed neophyte) should be looking for a knowledgeable person to tell me exactly what it is you have have....

A 3 synchro box will crunch into first unless completely stationary (and even then sometimes) because , by defintion, there is no synchronisation... You stated "second through fourth are much better".  Does this mean they don't crunch??? If not, then I wondering where the problem is???  It all sounds pretty normal so far.

I'm also wondering what you mean about the steering rack being "angled"???  If you mean that the steering column is not completely parallell with the cars centreline - then this is a feature not a fault - ie, they're all like that..

I appreciate you want to be completely honest - but to be so you must first know the truth - and I'm not sure you're there yet...

Good luck, Ian

Very nice car overall - You should post up an actual Sales Ad in the for sale section- people look there for vehicles not within the forum.

Do you have a Top for this car? and the matching Bows? Aus Top parts are different and would be  a bear to source from Australia. Something to consider. Not pictured with old car too.

The tranny is what it is. Sell it noting the faults that it proabbly needs a refresh - Get a quote from your shop for what all that labor will cost and be prepared to negoitate with any potential buyers.

I think your asking price is a fair starting point. Ebay will also reach a wider audience but beware of ebay fees.

Its not a Choke so thats a plus.! and being the age- cant go to California!  CARB Rules there seem to be narrowing out many cars and their ability to register and or stay!

Some photos (restored and as it was).   Noted that the white vinyl has been replaced with a more subdued saddle tan color (the white looked a bit too bright and got filthy)

Swinglo,
You don't show any contact information in your profile or any of the threads.
If you don't mind, shoot an e-mail to my profile address.

_{Don't worry about it. I think you are doing fine. You have saved a special little car. I'm currently building ( rebuilding may be more correct ) an engine and tranny for a early oke. We have decided to go with a four synchro magic wand under the OE 850 engine. I do a lot of trannys and labor is an issue. Once in there all wear parts should be inspected and replaced as required. You will find that coming to a stop and selecting second g}ear then moving into first will stop the grinding in first. Do not install a KAD quick shift. If you decide to keep I'd be glad to do a tranny update. 

I understand about the shop. I did a engine tranny swap for a stock broker in NY/ NY at least 5 years ago. The second owner of the car since I worked on it still calls me every time it stumbles. Steve (CTR)

Guys - thanks for the honest feedback.  I know most Mini guys wrench their own cars and rescued them from the side of the road like a wounded deer , but that's just not me.   I'm as handy as they come and would LOVE to bury myself in all things mechanical (a dream is ultimately build some manner of kit car), but the reality is that I simply don't have the time with extensive business travel and a young busy family.  I just bought this beat to crap cool funky car called a Moke off a guy I met at a microcar show and paid someone to restore it so I can make summer memories with my kids.   I bought it to turn a key, drive it and park it.  That's it.   

As such, I'm simply not in the know when it comes to all things A Series engine (and specifically the gearbox).   I have to rely on email communications with the shop that did the work, which start friendly and helpful and then become prickly as he realizes that time is money and my questions take time!   

Perhaps I should have started a thread with inquiry on market value and understanding of the gearbox and a) what it means and b) what it means to the value of the car.    

So, back to my last communication with the shop (again these guys own Minis/Mokes, are well respected and even prep/wrench Mille Miglia cars) - they did ALL of the work on the car (from soup to nuts).  I trust them.      According to them, the powerplant was swapped at some point.   What's in now is a 1098 A Series with a hot cam.   The gearbox is a 3 synchro pudding stirring/magic wand.    If I decided to keep the car, we were going to address the gearbox.    I may have made it worse than it is (keep in mind, my other 'toy' car is 2008 Lotus Elise, so I'm used to that shifting experience).    It can grind (not always, but sometimes) getting into first.   Second through fourth are much better.   The throw as you all know, is long. 

The plan of attack the shop recommended to address (if I kept the car) was to remove the gearbox (labor), take it apart (labor) and address.   He said that, after having worked on my car, knowing my car and knowing the marque, that it's certainly the baulk ring.    Honestly, I don't know a baulk ring from a Lord of the Ring, but he states that it's a $20 part.  When I asked if there's on on each synchro (2,3,4) - he said 'what does it matter - it's a $20 part per. That's a drop in the bucket.   The real cost is the labor because the engine has to be pulled and the gearbox taken apart'.   Again, time = money. We even discussed converting to rod change possibly with the KAD for shorter through (although he nothing good to say about the KAD quickshift).

So, that's what I know.   Again, don't shoot the messenger.    There was a time when everyone, at every craft, was an uneducated newbie.  That's me.  I'm trying to understand as much about the car as possible (now that I need to because I'm selling it) and won't to disclose any an all issues as honestly and specifically as possible.  lease, educate me!  

As for the Oz ADR compliance plate - where would I find that?  Keep in mind that the care has been taken apart and the tub subjected to much panel beating/mending/welding and a complete blast and respray.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I'd think one of the other synchros could be weak. Stick with your price I believe the market lake the economy is making a slow come back. With a couple of minis for sale the past two years ( lots of calls lots of pictures no takers ) I sold one this week. 

If you don't mind I'll hi jack your thread for a bit. Not being up on specials I'll share this. Got a call from a shop in Richmond Va. local guy up there bought a 92 mini. He thinks it's a British Open and has been titled as a late 70s. Having new and old minis he took his 92 to the local BMW/Mini dealer for service. Seems the service manager had a mini in the 70s so he suggested ripping the FI off and replacing with a 45 DCOE. Now it won't run correctly and he wants to sell. It's a very nice car and the fuel and electric have been fooled with. I believe he has all the parts to go back but he has spent out on this project. I'll be talking with him again today about the best solution and a price. He's in for $18,000 now and knows he's going to take a hit. If interested contact me. I can't afford to buy any more projects right now. Steve (CTR) 

Confusinger and confusinger....  You can't install a 1st gear baulk ring (ie synchroniser) in a 3 synchro box.

And just to muddy things a little more.. Oz Mokes might have an early type 3 synchro pudding stirrer or a late 4 synchro (basically rod change) also using a (slightly different) type of pudding stirrer....

Does it have an Oz ADR compliance plate (which will specify the build date)?

Cheers, Ian

It most certainly isn't a Choke.   Ironically enough, the man I purchased is from is most like an active member here as he owns 2 or 3 Minis by my count.    

As for the gearbox, I circled back with Historic Race Car and I was mistaken.  It does NOT have a synchro on 1.   Apologize for the confusion - I didn't wrench the car at all.   I simply bought it and, being a very busy father of 3 young kids who travels a lot, I had a professional do the work correctly.   He's assured my that it will need a new baulk ring (which he claims is a $20, but that the real effort is in the gearbox removal and replacement).    It's the pudding stirrer/magic wand 'box.    

I'll post pictures and create a 'for sale' thread post later this evening.

PIG IN A POKE = CHOKE

"...Yves has assured me that it’s most likely the synchro on 1 and/or baulk ring..."

You had a synchro on 1st??? Such luxury. A proper English Moke would not have had such a thing.
Me? I have no problem with my "pudding stirrer". Very postive and smooth shifting. The only thing is I need to be careful while passing by the 1st gear gate. If you get sloppy it'll "buzz" the gear.... and that's an annoying sound.  

Actually if you can help with pricing, I would appreciate it.

The gearbox most likely needs the baulk ring (as I was told by the folks who did the resto).    It's still driveable - just more of an annoyance than anything.  I'd like honest feedback as to what that does for the overall sellability.

Re: the steering rack.   It's actually a brand new rack (for when they converted to RHD), most likely purchased here.   I also have the original LHD rack that I will include (among a number of other parts).    To my eye, it angles to the right a bit.    I'd imagine it's just an adjustment.

I'm trying to price it realistically to maximize my return, but also be consistent with the market.   It's just so hard to do with these cars.   There are just not many baselines to compare to.   If I were to sell my Lotus Elise, I would most likely be able to price it to the penny with certainty.   The Moke?  Not so much.

Again, any feedback you can provide would be very helpful.

Thanks.

//minimania.com/Cars4Sale_list.cfm 

Thanks all.

Sorry - was posting this as my 3 kids were acting like, well, 3 kids .    I didn't specifically see a 'For Sale' section - thought it was an all thread topics in one forum deal.

I will add pictures later today.   They are on an a separate jump drive that's at my office.   Will do my best and if I have trouble, I'll ask.

As for the price - $17,500.

As for the miles - the odometer has, I believe 3,800 (car is in storage a few miles away so I'll check when I'm there).   Right before I bought it, the prior owner had put the 1098 engine in, so the 'how many miles on the car' question is a bit difficult to answer.   I've put perhaps 300 miles on it since I restored the car.  Mostly just quick 10 miles jaunts here and there to pop over to Home Depot or perhaps take the kids to a baseball game.   Frankly, I don't think I've taken any single trip longer than 20 total miles with it.

Re: RHD.   The car was originally RHD (Australian).   Some owner somewhere converted it to LHD.   Historic Race car suggested that 'it wants to go back to RHD!' and did the conversion as part of the resto.   They did all the work over a winter, so I can't comment specifically, but I believe the pedal box is reversable and they purchased a new steering rack and whatever else was needed.    

Thanks and I'll get pics up later today.

SwingLo,
I would recommend listing the Moke both on our host's cars for sale section and the Moke Club's classified section. www.mokeclub.org
If you have a hard time posting pictures on the Moke Club's site, let me know & i'll try to help. If it's possible, picture posting is even more convoluted than on this forum.....

Good luck with the sale.
But, you will regret letting it go. Don't know of a single ex-owner of a Moke that doesn't feel that way.