Hi all,

newbie here. I'm also thinking of getting a HSR to replace my HIF44 without needing to cut my bulkhead / firewall to install a DCOE.

 

May i ask if I really need to cut the firewall to fit a HSR using the original HIF44 inlet manifold and adapter?

 

thanks guys!

Choke cable is not as hard as it looks: 1. determine length needed, you must have a little slack so there is NO pull when you don't want choke. Unscrew the black choke nut. Inside you will find a spring and a brass Choke jet. the brass part has a hole that the cable must end, stopped by a hunk of solder or lead that you are going to weld on. I did this about 4 times and the last one worked the best. In that try, since I knew the length exactly by this time, I actually used my MIG welder set on the lowest setting a did spot drops until the total piece was about the size of the hole in the brass part. Then grind it till it fits. The choke worked perfectly for me! this is a far superior choke vs the SU. 2. This choke cable once installed is the limit to how much you can remove the carb from the car. That makes it a little more pain to set up all the jets. I would do the choke LAST!

Jerry

That must be the filter I have because it came with the carb from Vperformance. I as looking at the 30" cable on this site to cure the issue. How did you set up the choke cable(any pics?)

I bought the speedo cable that is about 4 inches longer so it will go under the carb. It is still in the way at times but as you install stuff, keep pushing it out of the way and it will fit. I used the round filter that the Mikuni guy sold me. I think I still have the box, I will check tomorrow. Jerry

Jerry.I just started my mikuni journey.Carb is on the car but I'm stuggling with finding a air filter that doesn't foul the speedo cable. Would you know the part number you used? Thanks,Hal

I took my Mikuni HSR 45 off the mini, not because it did not work, but because of the way I had to drive the car. Massive accelleation but it was touchy at some points in the throttle. I found that the carb performed best driving all out. It was a little rough at low rpms. But once the car was moving, it was amazing. This could have been the 2.9 final drive on my car. (1380, ported, large valve head, 286 cam, ). I will add that the Head you use works with the carb so your head is different than my head. Alaric also has an aluminum after market head and his Mikuni works fine. I now have twin 1.5 SU on the car and am still tinkering with the mixture. I run rich on acceleration and lean (air/fuel 16.3) at cruise on the freeway. Still have to ease the pedal to accelerate, rather than floor it. I have tried 3 needles, winSU and the minty program. The profile all suggest needles that are too lean for 1/2-3/4 throttle. So all the carbs may be a pain for YOUR engine. It just takes time and experimentation.

But, I have my Mikuni for sale on the parts pages. Ready to bolt on with K&N and extra jets to play with. It is certainly easier to fit than the twin SUs for a left hand drive car.

Jerry

I'm planning on some mods to my 998cc engine in my '88.  Has anyone used a Mikuni carb with the 998?  If so, was it worth it? Thanks.

I like mine not because it may or may not be faster but because you set it and forget it easy to tune as far as carbs go and it really opens up the back of the engine for working or inspection. I have the 42 on the car and a 45 that I may try at some point.

Our host has some hands on expearence with the HSR carbs but I dont think any feedback was shared? (see below thread)

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/110035/1/1/What_can_you_say

Very convincing dyno results.  Question - since I'm considering/researching MegaSquirt/Megajolt/MicroSquirt is the cost of a dual Mikuni setup worthwhile?

Is a MicroSquirt with a regular used throttle body better than dual Mikunis?  It sure is cheaper.

I'm trying out a weber dgv 32/36 on mine. But that's just cause I wanted to try something different, and a turbo plenum was readily available. I will be extending the progression/off idle circuit, and enlarging the accelerator pump nozzle to cope with less air being drawn in. Off course the turbo will make it more interesting. Don't know what to tell you about the Mikuni's. Had a set of 4 smooth bore ones on my cb900f, they were fantastic. 

Thanks, i've already got a very nice wideband setup for the mini. The setup I'm looking at  has  been converted to sit the mini, re-jetted,  and has the proper linkage. After  shipping and custom tuning for my specific setup, it  will probably be closer to $500. 

If  you are  willing to donate,  I'm willing to  receive.  haha.  I'll shoot you an email. 

I did a Mikuni on the 1961 I had last year. I think I used the 42mm (all the files on it went to the new owner). The engine was a 1275 bored +.040 (1310) with a mild street cam (ELG001).

I liked the response of the Mikuni. I installed a wide-band O2 sensor and air/fuel ratio meter to assist in tuning. They are pretty easy to adjust and seem less prone to their tuning drifting out than the SU carbs.

Plan on a bit more in the budget for the conversion for tuning bits and such. I think my set may have ended up being about $650 for the conversion (including the A/F meter kit).

I have a couple spare of K&N air filters for the kit I am willing to donate if you would like them.

mplayle13 -at- gmail -dot- com

 probably around $400

how much are planning to spend on the mulini carb set up?

I'm pretty sure it's the route I'm going on my 1380. It just makes sense with all the benefits of the Mikuni.

My question is whether anyone on here is running a Mikuni and what do you like/dislike about it? Would you recommend a HSR45? I'm planning on running a 1380 with a Kent 266, possibly aluminum 5 port head. Not built as a race car. Built as a strong, reliable street car.

 

Video with a Mikuni. Has a nice sound to it.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=irpx9HfdNOk

 

Source that modifies them for Minis.

//www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html