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Oh...and before Big Al jumps in...If you do install a rad fan at some point, be sure to torque the lugnuts when you replace the wheel. Trust me on this one.
N J
Sarcasm - Because beating the crap out of someone is illegal.
Avatar: 'B, bye Veruca. Luv ya.
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im glad I asked before I wasted my money an alu rad. I do need new hoses all of them as they has surface crakes on some places. Previous owner did not maintain car to good.he also cut and spliced hoses to make some work. i do want to keep the heater core hooked up.what have you had luck with
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modern cars use aluminum radiators for weight savings, and cost savings, and then use a radiator shape with a quite large surface area to make up for the loss in thermal efficiency
race cars use aluminum for weight savings and survive the loss of thermal efficiency by always moving forward, very fast (maximum air flow, all of the time the engine is running)
I agree with Mike, Justin and NJ, that if you need more cooling, a Super 2 Core will get you the most cooling performance, and I agree with them and everyone else to first make sure that your system is working 100% before changing anything.
When extra cooling truly is needed, beyond those things, the next thing is to add an electric, "puller" fan in the wheel well, and if more is needed beyond that, then move the heater core up front and use it as an aux radiator (= increased radiating surface area).
Norm
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an aluminium rad is pretty much equivalent to a 2 core super flow copper one. The cooling benefit from aluminium comes with more rad surface and of course u save some weight.
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Unless you have a '68 with the built in radiator shroud on the inner wing panel removed, the aluminum radiator will not fit.
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I have a super 2 core in my turbo Mini in Florida. For what you have it's definately all you need. I wouldn't spend the $$$ on the silicone hoses either. Block off the water pump bypass unless you drive in the freezing cold (drill 3 @ 1/8" holes into the thermostat if you kill the bypass). Have your heater hose turned off or run the return back to the thermostat top.
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Alum yes would look cool, but really the best original style radiator out there is the super cool 2 core. We just put one in my buddys mini - 1293 with a hot cam. it has no issues shedding the heat. I also have the same on my 1275 with a puller fan in my inner fender to pull hot air in traffic and have had no problems.I do try to keep moving as necessary but the fan is for extra assurance. HECK if its ove 95 anyways im in the other car with AC.
If you have the dosh to spend on Aluminum, go ahead, but many have had great sucess from NC to Florida with the supercool Radiators.
Goodluck
Justin. Charlotte NC.
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So, what makes you believe it will overheat when you "...drive the car when it gets warm out low - mid 80's basically 9 months a year..."
Folks have been driving these cars for over fifty years in hotter conditions without having to resort to some fancy radiator. Your time and money would probably be better spent sorting out the root problem.
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I bought a super two core for my 998 with a stage one kit for here in the ATL. With an added electric fan it worked for my 1380 as well. If you have the $$ for ally and like the look, OK, but based on my experience, I wouldn't think it necessary to go that far.
N J
Sarcasm - Because beating the crap out of someone is illegal.
Avatar: 'B, bye Veruca. Luv ya.
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i live in north carolina . ive got a 68 mini with a 998 carb and 4 speed. i will not drive the car when it gets warm out low - mid 80's basically 9 months a year. I wont race or ralley or anything like that. I have the old stock one but I know it was built for wonderful english weather and not this insane heat humidity? im on the fence on this one. I do plan on putting new hoses all the way around i have seen the silicon ones that i like. would yo guys buy an alu rad as a preventive measure?