Robert, thanks for the pics and the link to that Video from our host. The way you've modified the pedal box was exactly what I was thinking. Thank you; I'm going to do some work with the auto pedal box I have, and put the clutch pedal in place of where it is currently just a bushing / spacer. I also appreciate hearing about your rod change and alignment upon install. Nice Mini, BTW! Best, MSH P.S. Any readers out there have a clutch pedal available? And, does anyone know about variations between NAM3115 (LH) and 3116 (RH)? I'm off to check on the 2A3034 bushing and the NAM8544 spring on the pedal box ( I think )

theminimark,

Yeah, I converted a 1973 auto to manual a couple of years ago.

I had acquired a complete manual pedal-box and found that a complete replacement would require a bit more disassembly of the dash and steering column than I thought, so I just added the clutch pedal to the existing pedal assembly.
It was a fiddly job but I was eventually able to get the main pivot pin through with the spring and tension.

I made some spacers for the engine mounts. There is a MiniMania video on converting an auto-to-manual and they mention 3/8" spacers.
After final assembly, 3/8" spacers seemed a little high but the factory air-box clears and you have to tilt it a certain way to take it off.
I made the spacers by cutting approximate 4" X 3" pieces of 1/8" sheet-metal from Lowes or Ace. I cut them to accommodate the standard manual transmission engine mounts. I stacked the three together and ground a "V" groove on the two sides that would be forward and rear and welded a bead in the groove. I then ground off any weld material that would affect the mounting surfaces.
I used the engine mounts as a template to drill the holes.

I used a 1988ish A+ 998 as the doner engine so it had a rod-change transmission.
My 1973 had the "square" shifter-transmission tunnel that was perfect for the rod-change shifter. I guess earlier cars with remote-shift have a round-ish profile where the shifter comes up?

While installing the engine, I thought that I might have to drill new engine-mount holes. I had the engine in position but still hanging from the engine-hoist and bolted the shifter in place. As it turned out, with the shifter in place, the original engine-mount holes worked perfectly..

To mount the rod-change shifter, the holes were already there from the factory to mount the rubber-bobbins to the shifter-tunnel.

I think, but I can't remember, but I'm sure that I soldered the wires for the automatic-start-inhibitor-switch together and left them under the carpet. The wires are the ones that attach to the inhibitor-switch under the automatic shifter.

My 1973 didn't have a reverse light but I added one and used the reverse-light switch wires on the rod-change shifter.

At this point I have gone from an inertia-starter to a pre-engaged. I kept the original starter-solenoid and piggybacked over to the solenoid on on the pre-engaged starter. I ran an appropriate gauge battery cable from the hot-side of the original stater solenoid to the large nut-terminal on the starter motor. I then ran a fairly heavy 12 or 10 gauge lead from the solenoid-to-inertia-starter terminal to the large spade-terminal on the pre-engaged starter.

For my particular build, the 1973 automatic had Hardy-Spicer Joints and I had to pick up a set of used pot-joint axles. 

A link to the video and some pictures.

Cheers,

Robert

https://youtu.be/WrvJ6hhgP2A?si=6T4CxurBVwxvtWAL

Has anyone on here converted a classic Mini from Automatic to Manual? I'm curious how many have installed a manual into a formerly Auto Car, and if they have any tips to share. Some thoughts: Were you able to convert the pedal box by just adding the clutch pedal where the plain bushing was? Did you install spacers on the Auto Subframe, or change out the whole subframe? Any commentary on the rod change installation after you'd pulled the automatic shifter assembly?

Thanks! MSH