If you decide to copy my bias bar setup for lhd Minis, my brake and clutch pedals are 7 inches apart center to center.  My brake pedal is about where standard pedal would be, but much more contact area.  Clutch is moved further left.  

Compared here with an old rhd pedal box, the rhd clutch and brake pedals are 4.5 inches apart.



One more pedal hint, I found that mounting the Paddy Hopkirk gas pedal upside down makes heel & toe much easier.

Thanks but I have now installed original mini pedal assy. May I ask how old are your pedals are?. I just viewed a vtec mini with minimania wilwood pedals last weekend. He did his conversion a few years ago and they are not the same as my pedals, so who knows. You won't get an answer out of wilwood. Also the gap between pedals and between brake and steering column is no different than std pedals so it was a waste of money all round. We all learn from our mistakes.

Just finished my Wilwood pedal install. I still need to mount the brace but the instructions are terrible. I am happy to answer any questions I can, though.

I'm really not sure Willie, is anyone out their doing this. I'm doing a vtec and with a lot of power I don't fancy mixing my toezzz's up.

If you just want more distance between the pedals could you not just heat and bend the clutch pedal over some?

My sole reason for seeking a different pedal box was to get a descent gap between the brake and clutch pedal. I have no issues with my M/C's. The KAD doesn't have it's own pedals so is of no use to me. I have now had to fit some secondhand original mini pedals because I didn't have any to start with.

I run the KAD setup on my racecar and it’s great. It does create some packaging constraints with the m/c’s sticking into the engine bay.

Thanks Scoop, I think I will go for original pedal box and  maybe revisit the options once the car is road registered

the KAD unit attaches to the original m/c studs in the bulkhead and has a bellcrank to actuate the balance bar for two lateral masters from the original Mini brake pedal.  Good and bad.  Good because dual brakes without inside-the-cabin modification. Bad because it wont fit every Mini engine bay.  For example, later RHD Minis had the brake servo right there. 

There is a picture of a KAD installation here: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/57216-floor-mounted-pedal-box/  and some discussion here: https://www.16vminiclub.com/forum/general-public-area/general-16v-mini-chat/19827-obp-pedal-box

I had a look at the KAD website. They call it a pedal box but I don't see any pedals just bias and master cylinders

Google finds lots of UK classic mini forum discussion on this, people buy brake pedal boxes which are advertised as direct fit but they are not, everything requires some custom fab.  One example : https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/350982-compbrake-pedalbox-installation/  In another, I see people saying the KAD pedal box is one good one which is not underdash but goes in the engine compartment. 

Well Scooperman , I think the moral of the story is " nothing is easy as first thought" It appears you are having fun and that's the important thing. 

RedRiley, I have found a clip on utube of a OBP install. Link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOfJzeoNc_0
It it definitely not plug and play. It looks like a lot of welding required. I have made contact with an ex mini importer not too far from where I live. He has a few secondhand original Rover pedal boxes. I will take a look next weekend.

RHD? Yeah, I would definitely look into the OBP or one designed for RHD Minis. 

the car had a brake failure on track (I wasnt driving that day) and I decided no more single-master brake system.  My first attempt to go dual master was to fit a GMC159 dual master from an Austin America (ADO16), which is why the original brake master mount hole is larger.  I got it working but could not dial in the front/rear bias to my satisfaction.  I dont like the internal design, if you work through a worst-case failure analysis the results are iffy...what happens if this seal fails first, what happens if that seal fails first?  I wanted redundancy.  Every other race car I had worked on had two masters and a balance bar, pick master bore sizes to get in the neighborhood and then tune with the bias bar.  Bias bar adjustment done by rotary cable mounted with the control knob beside the shifter.  Panic stops unload the rear, so max rear pressure gets a bias limiter, which also has a knob on the other side of the shifter.  Everything adjustable while belted in. At tech, the inspectors see OEM masters and generally check it off once they glance inside and see the controls.  If they want more detail they are welcome to crawl in there under the dash.

In engineering one of our rules was good/fast/cheap, you could pick any two but not all three.  If you want it good and you want it soon, it wont be cheap.  So as a budget racer, if I wanted good I often had to build it myself, couldnt just buy anything I wanted.  A couple months ago, I saw an ad for a used balance bar master setup, what the heck I spent my weekly beer money on it.  Came with 3 master cylinders, two mounted and one spare.



I hadn't tried a pivot mount master setup, wanted to see if I could make a simpler setup for the race car.  Also not familiar with Alcon, after I got it I looked up Alcon pivot mount master 0.875" bore.  Yikes, $1300 each.  Moral of the story, see what you can find on Ebay and sites like racingjunk, might be some bargains out there.

Wow scooperman that's far to much brain power for me to tackle. I am building a honda mini from a brand new totally bare shell so everything that involves safety I really want to buy off the shelf. The heritage body shells do not even come with an ID plate and everything will have to be scrutinized and certified by an appropriate  engineer before I have any hope of getting registration for street use in Australia. Thanks anyway and don't tell anyone else that you are installing a mustang component.

right now car is partially disassembled, only have photos of bits and pieces, but this is how I did mine.  I tacked two BMC pedal boxes together and moved the clutch master over.  Modified the brake pedal to take a Tilton balance bar, used two Cooper S brake masters and an early Mustang rear brake pressure limiter. Wiper motor slightly relocated further up and toward the fender.  Ugly but functional.

Thanks RedRiley. I might give BJ a ring. I have had emails with BJ a few months back after getting one of  their vtec front subframes, I won't start on that. The minitec pedal box I have is probably not suited for street anyway because the master cylinders on the inside are problematic  with a standard mini dash rail. Also for anyone out their doing a vtec RHD mini , the firewall modification above the toe board to allow relocated steering rack , means the pedals have even less travel option so pedal box must be moved even more aft and thus make the master cylinders protrude out more from the dash. I did look at the OBP pedal box a couple of months back but thought they were very expensive, $980 Australian and that's without master cylinders but it will now become an option I guess. 

If you do decide to return the Wilwood pedals and go another route, I would look into one of the UK designed pedal boxes made specifically for Minis. I've seen this one talked about on the UK Mini forums. https://www.obpltd.com/product-page/classic-mini-top-mounted-3-pedal-system

I assume that's the MiniTec kit that MM sells. I know it's frustrating not to get specific instructions, and MiniTec are not always the easiest folks to get information from. But I would try calling BJ at MiniTec and telling him what your issue is and ask him if there is anything missing from the kit you have or any advice for installing it. The description on the superfastminis.com site for the pedal kit says it comes with "the unique MiniTec mounting bracket" So I assume there must be a way that it's meant to work. I've never been super happy with how my setup feels on the car. There is more flex in the mounting than I would like. If I'm ever forced to replace or upgrade, I might use something different.

Yes the bottom tray would be the third issue but I am now thinking the top plate that came with the kit is a throw away item, if you are going to fit it in a mini. I had seen the links you sent me but they are not in a standard mini , thanks anyway. Here's an image of my kit, I assume it's the same as yours. I thought the kit was specially made for minis but it turns out the kit is non specific to any vehicle. I think I made a big mistake and will most likely go back to the original mini box. I thought something was strange when I couldn't find a utube install video.