Sorry about that, yes, I was referring to grounding the unit to the body.  I went back and re-read what he said the Kenlowe instructions were, and they are confusing and wrong IMHO.  Here is what he posted:

"The diagram indicates that the red wire (power) should be connected to the (-) battery terminal and the black wire should be connected to a "-VE ignition switch controlled fused supply".

If the car is Positive ground, then what they wrote has both wires connecting to the Negative side of the battery.  What he needs to do is take the fan unit and test it uninstalled on the car.  First connect the Red wire to the + side of the battery and the Black wire to the negative side of the battery.  That should make the fan turn in the correct direction.  Then, he should reverse the wires by hooking up the Red wire to the negative side and the Black wire to the positive side of the battery.  At this point the fan may run correctly or run backwards.  Based on these results, he should hook one wire to the White one on the fuse box and the other one grounded to the body.

Hugh - the part that did not make sense is the fourth sentence:

...As to connecting the other wire to the negative side of the battery, you can simply attach it to the body or engine block anywhere you get a good ground and it will be the same as hooking it up to the battery....

This sentence reads as though you forgot that the question is about a positive ground car.  I know that in reality you would not have a problem with this task or with explaining how to do it. 

Mur, what part of it doesn't make sense?  The Kenlowe manual he quoted said:

Wiring something like this, you need to begin with a fuse or circuit breaker to protect the entire new system.  The trigger wire, black I think, would also need a fuse at where it gets its power from.  The Red wire sounds like it is already protected.

Think of it this way.  The -12V wire from the battery is quite large and powerful enough to start the car.  It can carry a huge amount of energy.  If you hook a 14 ga wire to that terminal on the solenoid, and that wire shorts out, it will become red hot instantly, and the insulation will melt off, often a situation that results in a new point for the wire to short out.  This can light an entire car on fire, and all it takes is an innocent wire run through the firewall to trigger a fan relay.  If you fuse that at the start, you will protect that new circuit.

Thanks Mur.

The diagram does not show it, but the controller has a standard Relay mounted on it, and the Red power connector and the Orange power connector to the fan have "In-Line" 7.5 amp fuses.

Hugh: What you wrote makes no sense.

EnglishJob:

The big red wire that goes to what is being called the electronic thermostatic controller needs to go to the starter solenoid, the HOT side of the solenoid.  Think of this controller as a relay. 

You can choose to run the black wire to a circuit that is live when the ignition is turned on.  I would power it via a switch, and give it a new source via an in line fuse holder and feed that fuse holder from the starter solenoid as well.  Mount the switch in a discrete place so as not to bother the appearance of the interior.

Ok, the White wire comes off the ignition switch from the number 2 location and supplies power (when the switch is on) to the fuse box and then from there to the coil.  If you need "switched" power, then this is the wire/terminal you want to hook to on the fuse box.  Alternatively, you could jump off the coil on the same post that the White wire is hooked to.  As to connecting the other wire to the negative side of the battery, you can simply attach it to the body or engine block anywhere you get a good ground and it will be the same as hooking it up to the battery.  HTH.