I'll second that Kendall GT-1 20/50 Liquid Titanium. I used to run Valvoline VR1, but from oil testing reports, I've found the Kendall contains higher number of ZDDP.

The less obnoxious way is to drill the two holes in the same place the grille buttons fit and insert nut serts into the body with large (1/4" or so) stainless phillips screws to hold the grille in place which sit flat with the metal grille frame and are hard to notice under the slats.

I was planning to install grill buttons for the reason mentioned but found that they were obnoxiously large and required cutting out parts of the grill.  I ended up returning them.

I have seen those and figured they were a racing thing. 

My mini has and aftermarket grille that has been installed a little rough, I don't think those would work.

didn't use a wrench, just my hands. maybe it's time I invested in one. 

You have just discovered why some Minis install their grilles with "grille buttons".  It makes removal a very simple process when you need to get to the distributor or oil filter.

Not sure which filter wrench you used but the "end cap" type with a suitably long extension your ratchet wrench will work. If you need more space for that tool hanging straight down, or room for your body parts , then just drive the front tires up onto a 2 X 6 board, or if necessary, 2 of them nailed together, and set Brakes

mission accomplished. I ended up using Valvoline VR1 20w50 and a Bosch 3330. I did need to go get a 15/16 wrench to open up the drain plug. 

I also had to remove the grille to get access to the oil filter. 

As mentioned by Harvey and others, you can reuse the copper sealing washer, particularly if you anneal it to keep it soft.  

However, I don't do that.  I have replaced mine with a different kind of seal.  The drain plug has 5/8 threads.  I currently use a bonded 9/16 [14mm] metal/rubber seal where the outer ring is steel and the center hole is basically a bonded rubber o-ring.  It shouldn't fit but it does when threaded onto the plug.  I use Doorman/Motor-Mite seal #65269.

The advantage of the bonded metal/rubber seal is that it takes MUCH less torque to achieve a seal and that typically prevents you from over-tightening the plug AND possibly stripping the drain plug hole.  (Search for threads on HeliCoiling drain plug holes.  Repair of a stripped drain is possible but not pretty).  The bonded metal/rubber seal is good for many oil changes, just like the copper washer.

Agreed but it is a very important detail that a lot of people miss Richard. That is why i did a one line so it could be easily seen and read.

"Those with automatics take note some sythetics do not work in auto Mini's and will destroy them."

That is why I said it needs to say MA2. That certification means it WILL work. A very important detail.

Those with automatics take note some sythetics do not work in auto Mini's and will destroy them.

ditto on 20w 50 Castrol GTX

as for oil filter, I use this one

//www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-ProSelect-/_/R-PSW21342_0429445532

and as for air filter

//www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Air-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL6094_0429203312

cheers,

Abel

 

First I'll give you the short answer. Those who still have questions should click the link in my signature, where the answer to all of the above comments will appear in about 30+ pages. More technical than most people want, but should clear up doubts.

Viscosity: Since I've rebuilt my engine to specs, I will use 10W-40. If it was a little worn, I'd go 20W-50 for hot climate or 5W-50 all around.

The "don't use synthetic" is a 50 year old myth. Put it behind you and move on into this century. Use synthetic if you want, and your transmission will also appreciate it, since it will not shear.

ZDDP: New oils still have a fair amount of it. Much more than 50 years ago. But for best protection with flat tappet engines (sliding action) we are better off with more of it, but NOT a lot. An SN oil for a modern car will have about 900 ppm. If you put in more than 1800 ppm, you are asking for cam problems. So the best solution is a diesel CI-4 or SJ-4 formulation, which will have about 1300 to 1500 ppm.

Do not try to mix your own. the risks of being too high are great.

If you have souped up your engine with high pressure valve springs, you should be more concerned with ZDDP. If you have a standard engine, and don't drive like $$$$$%%^&, don't let it bother you too much.

If you have an automatic, make sure the label also says MA2. This will mean it is good for wet clutches  (motorcycle designation). Some of the Shell diesel formulations also are MA2 rated.

Brad Penn, VR-1 racing, and several others are fine, but a popular and easy to find one is Rotella, although not in a 10W-40. 15W-40 would be fine on these engines if you are not in the coldest climates. 5W-40 Rotella would be good then.

As for filters, almost anything but FRAM. I have cut open too many bad ones. This week someone tried to convince me that they had changed. I cut open 3 and they were terrible. One with the retaining seal (that keeps the oil from draining back and keeps it going through the filter instead of straight back to the engine) resting on the perforated tube because the cardboard was not centered. The other two used no seals. Just the cardboard.

There are pictures here of several oil filters. [url]//www.widman.biz/English/Filters/aceite-usados.html[/url]

NAPA filters are Wix, and not bad. Probably about the best you can get on the street. I use Donaldson.

Looks like I'm going to use VR-1, it's the only one with ZDDP that I'm familiar with and can get locally. 

Hoping to take care of it Saturday. 

Also Kendall GT-1, 20/50 has zinc, coupled with a NAPA 1374 filter at 3,000 or less has carried me for 75,000 miles, mostly in the Florida heat.

Jedduh01, mentions the inter changeable Neon filter as most parts stores have no idea what a classic mini would take, no cross references etc, so much easier to just ask for the neon filter-

I also use the NAPA (Wix) Gold filter.  I've heard nothing good about Fram.

I recently found VR1 20/50 so using that now.  I was using GTX Grand Prix motorcycle oil...also has ZDDP

ADRay:

Jedduh01 mentions "ZDDP"

So what is ZDDP an why should you use oil with it?

ZDDP additive has zinc in it.

Zinc is metal, but it is soft.

It was used in most oils in the past when cars had solid faced valve lifters as opposed to the roller lifters most engines have now.

Zinc withstands high pressure contact between moving metal parts such as between valve lifters and camshafts.

Your mini engine has solid valve lifters.

Most modern oils do not have ZDDP so you should be sure the oil you buy has it. The oils mentioned such as Redline, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil are well known to have ZDDP. From my experience, most auto parts store clerks do not know about the ZDDP problem.

You may need to search for the brands with ZDDP and not all grades of each brand have it. These are specialty brands and have specialty prices.

ZDDP is also available separately as an additive, but it is better just to get oil made with it.

This is not just 'good to have'. It really can protect your engine.

Russ

Thanks everyone.

According to the Neon filter size, for example, I need a Fram PH3614 (oddly enough, the same one my 4Runner with a 4.0 V6 uses).