I think I ended up soldering. But the idea of soldering BEFORE cutting is a gem!

the secret is to use an acid flux with the solder, as it will clean out impurities like manufacturing oil, from between the strands, allowing the solder to wick in

the other secret is to use a very small amount of solder, less than you think (too much and the end may be difficult to get through the little hole, though a judicious use of a dremel grinder can remedy that).

Norm

Well I put the carb back together. The float cap at the bottom of the carb was pretty warped, so I new I was taking a risk. Well it leaked pretty good. So I ordered another one. I could machine it flat again, and I will try at some point, but it was out about .060 on all four sides. Some less, some more. So doing lots of reading and the carb is pretty easy, but there are things that you really have to dig for. 2nd test to come soon.... Thanks everyone for your input.

A reply to the various responses abut cable cutting and fraying:

Cutting is easy for me. And the strands stay together until... one tries to fit it through the just-big-enough hole in the trunnion. It is the edge of the hole that snags a strand, and once out of the bundle, it won't go back. Trimming off the strays is equally easy with a dremel fine cut-off wheel.

The bicycle brake cable end cap is also a nice ides... except that the cable has to go through the trunnion and be able to come out again.

Thanks for the thoughts though!

If I had a welder or acetylene torch (my better half would not be pleased even at the mention!) I could melt the strands together and then file down to proper diameter.

For me it was a real pain when I had carb problems and had it off many times.

  "Is the spacer required to be a specific width/thickness?" NO. "will this cause any issues?". If the spacer is too thin the throttle quadrant might hit the manifold.

Another quick question. When I pulled my HIF44, I had to loosen my intake manifold to get the carb off. The carb spacer is like .500", can I mill it down to say .375" and possibly shorten the carb screws so I do not have to loosen the intake manifold to get the carb off. Shortening the spacer, will this cause any issues? Is the spacer required to be a specific width/thickness?

There is probably hollow end caps too. Slide it on, crimp,then cut...   Thanks for all that have replied. I have still yet to find a SU HIf expert close to me to give good advice. Tomorrow i will attempt to put back together and give it a go anyway... Trial and error. A lot of people I have talked to, they are not that bad to work on and are actually very easy. Will keep you all up to date/informed

(my first job was at a bike shop, when I was 14). Ask at the bike (bicycle, not motorcycle) shop...if the cable is similar to brake/shifter cable, they will have little metal end caps you can crimp on. Not sure what they're called, but there should be tons of them in the repair shop.

To keep cables from fraying when cut, wrap with tape that will cover over cutting area. Wrap tight. Also make sure when doing the cut you have the cable against a hard surface. It will not fray even when using a sharp chisel and hammer to cut.

As for the one frayed wire you currently have, just nip it off with side cutters.

Never tried to dead line cold start I think it's basic if not activated it won't fail with wear. Take a close look at the jet tubes if you didn't change them. I had one when I first returned to SUs from Weber that had a high idle issue. removing the burp valve cured that. I have two or three to sort out now. Like everything SU they are dead simple if you have the parts. I'm getting deeper into Weber and SU. And now people are asking for FI instead. Prince of good timing. Steve (CTR)

Swindrum: I've tried Crazy glue and soldering, but the strands seem to be oily or some other coating that didn't want to take regular solder. Being steel wire also doesn't help.

Here's the choke cable trunnion clip I made (call it Dan's extra finger!).
 It is on a HIF44 but the idea would be similar for other carbs.

With a snap-shot digital camera, it's hard to get a sharp image of something so small. I've fiddled the image quality to exaggerate the wire so it shows up.

Essentially the wire is formed to snap into the spare hole on the choke lever and hook on so it doesn't wobble about. It extends a finger to the trunnion clamping bolt, onto which it is wound 2 turns or so. It goes onto the bolt so ot doesn't interfere with the trunnion seating in the hole, and the head of the bolt keeps it from falling out of the finger. The finger is arched slightly to apply light pressure holding the trunnion fully into the lever. It works just like your finger would, except it ddoesn't drop the trunnion into oblivion.

I have had some luck sweating the end of a cable with a bit of solder to hold things together. Particularily if you think you may be removing it frequently (LeMons Car...)

On a related note, I have been trying to get the LeMonte Mini running and it turns out that 2 of my HIF44's have the same malady, I haven't confirmed, but I think the cold start (choke) has had it on both as they are both running so rich, it will barely run. Has anyone ever sealed off the cold start for racing? We don't really need it. Eliminateds a failure point as well

Hi Zippy - it isn't cutting the cable that's the problem - I use a Dremel cut-off wheel. The cable original end typically is fused together and I haven't found a way of keeping the fresh cut from unraveling. Ususally one strand or another goes rogue.

I'll try to get a snap of the clip, or draw one up, though it may take a few days.

Try this guy. www.joecurto.com

Dan, sometimes the proper tool can save all sorts of aggravation. You should be able to find a cutter similar to this at any decent bike shop:
//www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S
Cuts the cable clean with no frayed ends. Try it out at the shop before purchase to make sure it meets your needs.

I'm interested in the spring clip you came up with. Please post up a picture/sketch. Or send it to the e-mail in my profile.

I'm not an expert, but have 2 HIF44's which I have had apart several times. Advice given to me for setting the float level is to to do it with the carb sitting on its side, not upside down as you'd want to do it. The other hard part is getting the springs and levers for the choke and throttle back on properly - easy to get confused. Two most disliked parts for me are the bi-metal lever in the mixture adjustment system and the trunnion that holds the throttle cable. I made a solid replacement for the lever and mad a spring wire clip for the trunnion to hold it in the throttle lever until I got the cable in. Now I don't lose it down the back of the engine. Frayed cable ends area also a nuisance. Other curiosities found: two daspot damper springs in a brand-new carb (even a pro mechanic missed that one) and a piece of brass turning inside the small filter on top of the inlet valve. But the BIG problem it took many attempts to cure was the size of the needle in the inlet valve - the tolerance was too close and when the carb warmed up, the needle would stick open, causing the bowl to overflow, resulting in flooding and stalling. I filed down the corners of each fin (4 fins x 2 edges = 8 edges total) a couple of thou of an inch and never have had a problem since. Rub them aneqaul number of srokes on a fine flat file. This occurred on both a rebuild and on the brand new Burlen carb I bought in desparation (the one with 2 daspot springs). The last bit of nuisance is getting the fuel bowl cover back on with the ring seal in properly - one used they seem to get slightly larger in diameter and difficult to coax into place.

So I  have had sporattic issues, so I pulled the carb and fuel pump. Fuel pump is back on, insdtalled with a new fuel filter. I have pulled the carb apart, cleaned it and am ready for a rebuild. I've read the manual, Haynes weber/Su carb manual. Still confused on parts. I am one to read, dismantle, read again, and it may find it;'s way into my brain. Anyone local to MD/Delaware are (Elkton) whom has a good knowledge of a HIF44? I could put it together, put it in and it could run like a champ, or i could do it 3-4x before I get it right. I would really like to be trained from a person whom knows what they are doing? Anyone out there.....