MTS; The 'R & D' that your expounding into, is and will further be of benefit for all, by expanding our 'choices' of suspension arrangements from the 'norms' we've known to like and/or accept. Thanx, for sharing your time & insight and look forward to your further 'findings,' later this Spring,,,season wise. lol   -John 
  p.s. 'Dig' the Clubbie too!

I should have clarified. In my first post I mentioned the hydraulic kit, it's cheaper, and you could retain your stock stuff to give it the same ride height. And yes, obviously just like bags, you got to get it aligned at whatever you desired right height will be set at. On my van I have to run 140psi front, and 75 psi on the rear to get the achieved cruising ride height. Fully dropped its at 75 front, 20 rear. 

//www.calverst.com/articles/SUS-Damper_lengths.htm

I just pulled this from the GAZ lowered shock specs

Fully open length between fixing centers roughly 12" front (Operating stroke length  2.75")

Fully closed length between fixing centers 9.25"

Fully open length between fixing centers roughly 14" rear (Operating stroke length  3.375")

Fully closed length between fixing centers 10.75"

So, just a quick look, 7000 Series shockwaves are 4" in diameter Compressed 10.75 Ride 12.8 Ext 14.2 Stroke 4.1

1000lb. Loop/Loop 13.50" Extend 10.50" Compress 3.75" Diameter Tapered Sleeve Airshock (each)3/8" port

This was just a quick look, when I get to that point again in spring, I will really dig into it. I rather find something that is "universal" off the shelf (not to be contridictory)and fab top brackets, etc, just have to research spring rates, diameter, extended, compressed, and on and on. 

A rough guestimate of spring rate that coilovers use I've seen on the Classic Mini 100 lbs on the rear and 350 on the front.

Oh and by the way the airride.uk kit bare bones, just the bags and brackets nothing else is 900gbp/$1414. It takes 1/4" lines/fittings. FYI.

This does look interesting - that might be the article I remember from 2006 or so. It's not an air-bag suspension though. They're hydraulics, esei! 

The rubber cones are retained, and the hydraulics lift the car on demand. If the cycle rate is high enough, you can make the car bounce. But I also see the value of it (can set the Mini for a low ride, and raise it to clear bumps or on rough roads.)

The only gotcha that I wonder about is that, when the ride height changes, the alignment changes as well. So a change in ride height can only be used for a short time. It wouldn't be like having multiple optional ride heights that one could use at will, without restriction. Unless there's a clever way to maintain alignmen, which would take some engineering for an independent suspension car.

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Attached are a old rayvern install in one of the Mini Magazines, I think that is the most cost effective solution at the moment. I have dabled with finding some air struts, sleeves, bags off the shelf, but have come up empty thus far. I think the front's you could maybe get away with just doing a little fabrication for the top shock mount, and making a bracket for the bottom, ala how they currently do the coilover setup, but I know everyone doesn't like the stress where it's not suppose to be. Again, check out the attachement. Same ride quality as stock, just the adjustability of height on the fly. Most people won't understand the use for it, but for guys like me that like to have the adjustability of laying it out, and cruising at a reasonable ride height it is an option of being static dropped. But like I said, I love the air ride setup I currently have. Slam specialties, re line. Does not ballon like the other manufactures. Anyway, carry on. I'll be diggin into in the spring when I get the Morris on the road, then I can get back to wrenchin on the Estate.

Scott, again, you are just talking about one general principle. Air compresses... so does hydraulic fluid. But significantly less. But now you're talking about racing and body roll... well, you'r ealways going to have some body roll. And if you're really talking about hydraulics having no compression, then you are talking about a static suspension... which is also bad for racing. You want a good balance.

Are you a professional racer and you are going to race your car every weekend with sponsors that require wins? No? Then you would be extremely satisfied with a GOOD air suspension. This is why I say a GOOD suspension... because a cheap air bag will balloon. And at that point, you're talking about the bag being the weak link... not the air.

Here's a good example of air suspension on an old car vs the stock suspension.

So sure... if you want to argue, there will always be a "better" suspension... but are you really going to put a full race suspension on your daily?

“ Like many people, I thought that air suspension was more of a style or cosmetic thing than a performance item. I had a 50 Buick with a crude airbag system on it but had never taken the time to learn anything about it so the performance of my Buick system was not impressive.  After coming to the Street Challenge this year I know there is a whole new level of performance available with an air suspension. These cars rode and drove great! It is truly the best of both worlds. There was no sacrifice of ride quality to get superior performance. When I got out of the red Chevelle with the stock suspension, I was DONE with that car…it was scary. The air suspension Chevelle drove and rode great…AND was 14 seconds a lap faster!”

That's a quote from Scott Pruett, a Grand Am Rolex Sports Car driver and winner of many endurance championships. I'd probably take his word for it, but if you don't believe him, there are a hundred more professional race car drivers just like that in this link.

I have talked to Joe Huffaker (Huffaker Racing). In an air suspension, air compresses under load and allows the car to roll. In a hydrolic suspension, the oil cannot be compressed, no roll. 

My questions about airbagged Minis would be how airbags deal with the very limited suspension travel of the classic Mini. The rubber springs have very high spring rates, because the suspension has to deal with road impacts with much less travel than a conventional suspension. Even though they're commonly sold, there are a number of people who question whether metal coil springs are able to do the job the rubber cones do, let alone air bags.

Are the air bags designed to match those high spring rates in such a compact package? I'm speculating that the bags would have to be a fairly unique design - to hold sufficient pressure to properly suspend a Mini without being too large or tall to match the limited space available. I've never seen the $4,000 air bag system, but perhaps some of that money goes to re-engineering the suspension in a more conventional fashion to accomodate bags. I vaguely remember seeing a description of a air system in Mini Magazine back in 2006 or 2007.

On the other hand, air bags aren't cheap, and a Mini isn't going to be cheaper because it's small. You still need a compressor, air lines, 4 air bags, mountings, and then other extras like a controller, etc. The price will be the same for those as it is for any other automotive application.

MTS, I'm not the one saying that air can't handle well. In fact, it handles significantly better than most older suspension setups. I looked into air for the mini a few times and just didn't care too much about changing over. I am going to put halper bags on my truck as well. If someone could source the front and rear bags for a classic at an acceptable price, I would plumb the rest up myself and call it a day. 

My comment on that kit is that it is ungodly expensive for no reason. $4k for a bag setup, some valves, switches, and a pump?  give me a break. If I set up a kit on the classic, I think it would be a manual fill (possibly a bit more complicated to get corner balancing) but the pump would only be on board if I thought the bags couldnt hold steady air and would need a quick refill. I wouldn't intend on lowering and raising it all around town. 

If you find a kit in the states using good quality bags and body construction, I'd love to know. I'm just not looking to do a full on custom job for air. 

Man, you guys need to read up on air. Air suspension can handle well, be durable, and it yes it can be expensive, and it can also be "cheap". I guess it is all relative. A basic kit would be around $800 if it has a simple air management. You could always do manual fill and do it for $400-500. The kit that was mentioned is stupid expensive, and who knows how it performs in the real world when most UK and US folk can buy a nice Mini for that price. I still am planning on running either air or hydraulics on my Mini. The hydraulics would handle exactly as the Mini did before because all it does is replace the hi-lo/trumpets. Instead of getting out and unscrewing it, at your finger tips you can just hit the switch and expand the knuckle. As far as air ride, I love the setup on my ride, building the Morris Minor right now with air ride as well. You get the best of both worlds, comfort, handling, and looks. Spring rate is at your finger tips. So I guess my question is, when people state that is "doesn't handle well" compared to what? A full race track setup, better than OEM? I'll let you guys know this year, but everything I have put it on has fit my needs of what I want out of a suspension. 

I guess that is why you don't see many. Expensive and doesn't handle well...

It won't handle either. Suspension too soft. 

I've seen that kit more than a few times. But I've never seen it installed, I've never heard of anyone using it. They don't provide info on what type/brand of bags, and there is NO WAY IN HELL that I'm paying $3000 for 4 bags, some perches, and some bolts. And that is the cheapest kit they sell... Their biggest kit for the classic is nearly $6500.. no thanks.

Has any one done air suspension on a classic mini?

I have never seen or heard of it being done before. 

I did find this after a quick search: 

//airride.co.uk/air-suspension-kit-for-vehicles/kits-car/classic-mini/